Waterfall Cliff Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Telephoto: Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff
Located in the trees to the right of the main waterfall, this area provides good sandstone slab climbing. Featuring climbs in the 5.7 to 5.12 range, this will prove a challenging area for any ability.
There are a few don't miss climbs in this section of rock: Clamydia (5.11d), and Putrefaction (5.11a).
Most of the area will be in the shade all day, but you will see the sun peeking through the trees often.
Keep in mind there are numerous routes not (currently) included in the MountainProject list, so double check descriptions before getting on a route. 'Sport' climbs in this area are sparsely bolted so use caution and consider adding pro when possible. Additionally, top-ropes can fairly easily be setup on (or near) most routes.
This area is crowded on the weekends, though you could be alone during the week.
Estimated hike in: 15 minutes.Distance: .9 miles
Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail. This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time. At the second Fork in the road, travel accross the bridge and continue down to the observation area. The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.
Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully ono the right side. The muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head down the gully away from the muffins and other 15 - 30' rocks. you will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.
Alternative directions: The path to Waterfall Cliff (and also 'The Muffins' and 'Shady Rock' areas) is found by walking down to the creek along the steep bank just to the left of a "dangerous " caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.
Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully on the right side. 'The Muffins' can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head past 'The Muffins', and down the gully towards the right. You will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.
Weather station 4.6 miles from here
12 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Waterfall Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Waterfall Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Waterfall Cliff:
The Falls 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Degeneration 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Putrefaction 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
The Oracle 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Convulsions 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Anti-Christ 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Clamydia 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Waterfall Cliff
Clamydia 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a CA
: San Francisco Bay Area
: ... : Waterfall Cliff
This is a superb route requiring strong fingers, strong arms, and good balance and technique. The climb is found just right of the 5.7 Lieback corner route about in the middle of the cliff. The "clams" is an obvious rock formation about 35' up. Getting to the first bolt and past, to rest on ramp, is steep and fingery. Moving from the second to third bolt is a very difficult short traverse left to right on tiny holds. Moving up to the "clams" is a stumper! Moving past the "clams" requires i...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: You can see that pretty much anything to the left ...
By Kristoffer Schmarr
From: 2nd Cornfield
Jun 11, 2013
There was a pair of tan Mythos on a fallen tree under the 5.9 as of June 10.
From: Cambridge, MA
Sep 2, 2015
Note there are numerous bolted routes not included in the MountainProject list; use descriptions to find routes (and please consider adding to them). The bolts are often quite sparse - so be careful when leading without trad pro.