Located in the city of San Francisco, this area is part of the San Francisco Parks system, so access is not a concern. You're in San Francisco, so the weather can be wonderful, but is most likely going to be foggy and windy.
This small area holds some interesting climbing on very glasslike rock, that can be quite tough on the hands, and in places almost impossible to smear.
The area holds several climbs that are topropeable, and also several could potentially be climbed trad, though it would be a frightening lead on the tougher routes.
To setup a toprope, walk around the left side of the rock and climb the loose rock in the trees for 20 feet or so. This will lead you to fence and a path, which will lead up to some rusty (but solid) chains that are directly above the main crack. Conceivable you could also top rope other sections using the fence for an anchor.
Getting There
Take the 101 North, and exit on the Duboce Ave / Mission St exit. Hang a left on Duboce Ave. Go up a few blocks, and take a soft left onto Market st. Take mission up about 3/4 of a mile to Pierce, where you should make a hard right. Go one block, and go left on Beaver st. Go uphill, until the street hangs a right. before the street makes another right, park. You will see a narrow opening that opens to a park on the left side of the street.
Note on the map: The actual area is on Beaver Street, approximately 1 block south of the star on the mapquest map.
I was just back in the city visiting some friends for a couple of days and stopped by Beaver St. to do a little top roping. I had put the chains up above the main crack system about seven or eight years ago and was curious to see how they were holding up. I wish I had a little extra time to do some minor maintainance, but I was only going to be in town until the next morning. The chains themselves still look bomber, but the last links are definately getting pretty worn from repeated top roping. If any one would want to throw couple of beefy quick links one link up from the end of the chains, it would ease my mind. I was surprised to see this wall given attention in a recent guide, and now here. It is pretty tiny, but a cool little secret spot in the middle of town. If this recognition leads to a little more trafic, it would be awesome to know that the chains got tuned up a little. Thanks.
I used to climb the Bev daily back in 1992-93 and loved the place! Since I've moved far from the Bay area I have never found a better easier to get to place to have a bit of fun. If you're in SF and using a gym instad of this place you're nuts.
If you're not comfortable with the 20 ft scramble and traverse over potentially slick grass and mud, the chains can be reached via a staircase and walk that ascend toward the Randall Museum about 5 or 6 houses south from Beaver Street. Just bear right as the Museum comes into view above the tennis courts.
We had trouble finding the wall with the directions listed. Try these: 101 North, and exit on the Duboce Ave / Mission St exit. Go straight on Duboce Ave where it starts as the freeway ends. Go up a few blocks, and take a soft left onto Market st. Take a right on to Noe St. Follow it up hill and take a slight jog right and continue up hill. Follow the street as it curves right and levels out. Park. The enterance to wall is on the left hand, or uphill, side of the street through a narrow alley which opens onto a couple sets of swings and a playground.
Also, anyone who wants to lead these climbs needs to bring 3-4 micro-nuts and a variety of medium sized nuts. I used Trango #1 brass nuts. I found no good cam placements on the routes. You could maybe use some micro-cams or micro-TCU's. Have fun, it's a cool wall
The place still surprises me, you can go from being there a few days a week and getting it dialed, to coming back after a while and it will feel hard. I lead it not to long ago, it was proud because of the pro, and the fact that they will pop. I felt super safe when you reach the bolt(no hanger)to the right of the climb and you can use a stopper to protect it.
Beaver Street Wall
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