Instead of starting out on the crack, climb the face directly below the vertical section of the crack. The crux is below any pro, so don't fall until you get up to the crack.
Protection
Friends to 2 1/2" and nuts.
There are also chains on the top of the crack, which can be accessed climbing the wall (5.0) through the trees on the left (street) side of the main wall. Go the the edge, and then follow the fence for thirty feet.
The main crack at Beaver street is rated at 5.9 not 5.10b. Having climbed it several times and seen 5.9 climbers make it up (with a fall or two), I think the 5.9 rating is about right on.
This rock is worth the trip to climb, if only to see the rock. The polished parts, look very similar to the surface of a redwood coffee table, very beautiful and slick. Agree with the ratings both direct and face.
I freed this crack last month and found it not to be that fun. The face of the rock is extremely polished and thus slippery. Next I aided it and I thought it was great aid practice. A2 I guess.
Beaver St - Main Wall
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