BETA PHOTO: The mirror surface on the beaver street wall
Description
Located in the city of San Francisco, this area is part of the San Francisco Parks system, so access is not a concern. You're in San Francisco, so the weather can be wonderful, but is most likely going to be foggy and windy.
This small area holds some interesting climbing on very glasslike rock, that can be quite tough on the hands, and in places almost impossible to smear. On the harder routes, if you can find it a grip, finger hold, nub, anything, you'll probably need it. This crag contains some great balancy moves, despite it's limited number of climbs.
The area holds several climbs that are topropeable, and also several could potentially be climbed trad, though it would be a frightening lead on the tougher routes.
To setup a toprope, walk around the left side of the rock and climb the loose rock in the trees for 20 feet or so. This will lead you to fence and a path, which will lead up to some rusty (but solid) chains that are directly above the main crack. Conceivably you could also top rope other sections using the fence for an anchor.
f you're not comfortable with the 20 ft scramble and traverse over potentially slick grass and mud, the chains can be reached via a staircase and walk that ascend toward the Randall Museum about 5 or 6 houses south from Beaver Street. Just bear right as the Museum comes into view above the tennis courts.
Decent should be to clean the anchors and rap off, or descend off the entry way as described above.
Getting There
Take the 101 North, and exit on the Duboce Ave / Mission St exit. Hang a left on Duboce Ave. Go up a few blocks, and take a soft left onto Market st. Take mission up about 3/4 of a mile to Pierce, where you should make a hard right. Go one block, and go left on Beaver st. Go uphill, until the street hangs a right. before the street makes another right, park. You will see a narrow opening that opens to a park on the left side of the street.
Note on the map: The actual area is on Beaver Street, approximately 1 block south of the star on the mapquest map.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Beaver Street Wall:
I was just back in the city visiting some friends for a couple of days and stopped by Beaver St. to do a little top roping. I had put the chains up above the main crack system about seven or eight years ago and was curious to see how they were holding up. I wish I had a little extra time to do some minor maintainance, but I was only going to be in town until the next morning. The chains themselves still look bomber, but the last links are definately getting pretty worn from repeated top roping. If any one would want to throw couple of beefy quick links one link up from the end of the chains, it would ease my mind. I was surprised to see this wall given attention in a recent guide, and now here. It is pretty tiny, but a cool little secret spot in the middle of town. If this recognition leads to a little more trafic, it would be awesome to know that the chains got tuned up a little. Thanks.
I used to climb the Bev daily back in 1992-93 and loved the place! Since I've moved far from the Bay area I have never found a better easier to get to place to have a bit of fun. If you're in SF and using a gym instad of this place you're nuts.
If you're not comfortable with the 20 ft scramble and traverse over potentially slick grass and mud, the chains can be reached via a staircase and walk that ascend toward the Randall Museum about 5 or 6 houses south from Beaver Street. Just bear right as the Museum comes into view above the tennis courts.
This rock is worth the trip to climb, if only to see the rock. The polished parts, look very similar to the surface of a redwood coffee table, very beautiful and slick. Agree with the ratings both direct and face.
We had trouble finding the wall with the directions listed. Try these: 101 North, and exit on the Duboce Ave / Mission St exit. Go straight on Duboce Ave where it starts as the freeway ends. Go up a few blocks, and take a soft left onto Market st. Take a right on to Noe St. Follow it up hill and take a slight jog right and continue up hill. Follow the street as it curves right and levels out. Park. The enterance to wall is on the left hand, or uphill, side of the street through a narrow alley which opens onto a couple sets of swings and a playground.
Also, anyone who wants to lead these climbs needs to bring 3-4 micro-nuts and a variety of medium sized nuts. I used Trango #1 brass nuts. I found no good cam placements on the routes. You could maybe use some micro-cams or micro-TCU's. Have fun, it's a cool wall
The place still surprises me, you can go from being there a few days a week and getting it dialed, to coming back after a while and it will feel hard. I lead it not to long ago, it was proud because of the pro, and the fact that they will pop. I felt super safe when you reach the bolt(no hanger)to the right of the climb and you can use a stopper to protect it.
I finally took the time to check out this little climbing wall just to see what it looks like. The AC directions are a little misleading as AC forgot to mention the left turn onto Beaver Street. After you turn right onto Noe Street from Market Street you take your first left turn on Beaver Street. Follow Beaver Street for a full block and cross Castro Street (I saw a sign that said Divisadero Street which is what Castro Street turns into a few blocks to the north). Continue up the steep Beaver Street for a short block. Beaver Street makes a sharp right hand turn at the top of the hill and then levels out. Park anywhere here. The little alleyway is on the left-hand side. You will see the wall's profile on the left. If you look at the map on MP, it is right on! Exactly where the alleyway is.
Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!
RSS Feed
Slideshow
