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First Strike 
Prospector's Daughter 

First Strike 

5.7

   

FA: Mark Schlocker, Jeff Salow 3/31/2007
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 230 page views

Submitted By: mschlocker on Apr 1, 2007


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The last two bolts of First Strike and me belaying...


Description 

Climb up and right from the top of Gold Nugget. Clip a bolt and pull the crux to a sloping ledge. Follow the ledge up and left to the right side of two obvious water streaks. Three more bolts up a featured face lead to a bolted rappel anchor. Rappel is about 90 feet back to the top of Gold Nugget so tie knots in the end of your rope.

The FA was my first experience using a hand drill on lead. Combined with the gold mining history of the area, "First Strike" seemed an appropriate name. I wanted to pick a line with worthwhile climbing yet decent stances. This fit the bill. I do wish the sloping ledge was more of an off angle cliff, but you work with what you've got.


Location 

A second pitch to Gold Nugget. Starts on top of the pillar on the right side of the wall.


Protection 

4 bolts to a bolted anchor. Small cams if you feel uncomfortable with runouts on easy ground. If you just made it up Gold Nugget, chances are you will be fine with just the bolts.



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Jeff installing the rap anchor old school style.

Jeff installing the rap anchor old school style.

Me installing the first bolt before the crux move.

Me installing the first bolt before the crux move.


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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Aug 2, 2007

This climb can be reached via climbing at the same difficulty up either side of the pinnacle with gear. This avoids the 5.10a first pitch. This makes it one of a handful of relatively easy climbs to reach the top of the wall. Could probably head from the ground to the upper rap anchor with one 60m rope. After re-climbing this route, I think maybe it is a little harder than 5.7.