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Bean Dip - Variation to Frito Bandito 
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Friction Route, The 
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Smoky Strikes back 

The Friction Route 

5.9

   

FA: Werner Landry, Ken Cook
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 85 feet
Views: 16 page views

Submitted By: off white on Mar 18, 2008


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Description 

This is the smooth low angle face to the left of the prominent chimney/dihedral on the lower tier. Start climbing at an oak tree (probably charred stump now) on the left side and move up small left arete, moving right to a bolt. Two more bolts lead to the top.


Protection 

It's bolted, but with three (still old 1/4" bolts?) in 85 feet you can't really call it sport.



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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 20, 2008

Last time I was there, after the fire, the rock was quite friable and the bolts still old. Maybe we should rename this the ball bearing route. Looked too bad to give it a go.