Eagle Peak - Restricted; Closed area changed to the left side of the main cliff. Corte Madera - Restricted; Closed area changed to the right/east side of the main cliff. Glen Cliff - Open. Poway Crags - CLOSED. El Cajon Mtn - Open.
Frito Bandito. Route starts to the right of the r...
Description
Long route that has it all. Highball face climbing leads to the first piece of gear. Head left around a roof, then up a nice hand crack. Up and right to a small roof (pulling roof is great fun). Up friable face climbing past two bolts (crux). Belay at ledge or climb up the hand crack for a nice finish. Watch rope drag across the rough rock. Use slings and it is highly recommended to back-clean the first pieces in the first roof traverse.
Walk left from belay (40') to bolted rap anchor. 100' rope stretcher rappel.
The first bolt over the roof is bomber. You can traverse right from there and sling a big horn. The direct finish past the last OLD bolt is very friable.
We used to belay at the bolt over the roof. The old bolt is the direct finish, the regular route went right at Tom describes. Going right, the whole route is 5.8.