Mark Schlocker on the ground-up FA of Friable Icic...
Description
Situated between Frito Bandito and Shady Lane. Head up a finger crack to under a roof. Pull the roof (straight up) to a ledge. Head up and left and lieback a wide crack. Up and left around a bush lies the bolted rap anchor. Due to the nature of the area and zero traffic on this route the rock is rough and friable in parts. I dislodged a 20 pound flake on the FA with negligible force. Due to my being cavalier on the FA, I went up with only a t-shirt for warmth. After pulling the roof rope drag became a bear and I spent some time sussing out a face that goes straight up before choosing the crack to the left. I set up a belay at the end of the crack and swear I was going hypothermic (hence Friable Icicle) at the end of a windy day. When I saw the bolts 15' of easy face climbing above the belay I had to kick myself.
Location
Just right of the chimney route on the lower tier of Stonewall Peak. Finish at bolted rap anchor.
Protection
Small Aliens to large cams (#3-4 C4 Camalots). Be careful when rappelling; it is almost exactly 100' to the ground from the bolted rap anchor.
This route got in the new San Diego climbing guide as Unknown 5.9 due to the info being third hand to the author. I guess he should check Mountain Project! It shows the route going up a sketchy ball bearing face. Wouldn't be a bad finish if a bolt were added to the face and it saw more traffic. Save yourself from chossy runout slab climbing and head up and left to the rap bolts after the mantle.
PS - Cool to see somebody else get on this thing Tom - now you have experienced its namesake.
Lower Tier
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