Eagle Peak - Restricted; Closed area changed to the left side of the main cliff. Corte Madera - Restricted; Closed area changed to the right/east side of the main cliff. Glen Cliff - Open. Poway Crags - CLOSED. El Cajon Mtn - Open.
A small canyon filled with grass and palm trees down near the border in Otay mesa contains some decent if somewhat short sport climbing on interesting featured metamorphic rock. Most of the good climbing faces north, and the trees offer shade, making this area climbable on all but the hottest days.
Getting There
From highway 5 go east on 905. Continue east on Otay Mesa Road. Turn left on Alta Rd and drive 2 miles, passing a prison, to an unmarked dirt rd on left with a concrete culvert. Go north on this rough dirt rd. At a fork near a fenced reservoir, bear right and follow this rd til it ends above a canyon. Hike left and down into the canyon to find the climbing.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Otay:
This area is experiencing EXTREME access issues. This is a favorite spot for illegals entering the country and is heavily patrolled by border agents. Helicopter fly-bys and border agents on ATVs with unholstered handguns is now the current state of sport climbing in Otay. Climbing is prohibited as posted on the signage above the cliff, and the routes are really not even worth the hassle. Rusted cold shut bolts? We should send Mr. Messier to Otay for all his bolt chopping pleasure!
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Jan 27, 2008
That's a shame to hear. Although I haven't been to Otay in years, it was always a nice place to take some noobs, or just spend a day playing around. No matter what the scorching temperature, the climbing in Otay was always well protected from the heat, by the tight canyon walls and abundance of flora.
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