This is the area that Woodson is known for. There are two classic climbs on this rock. Robbins crack and Lie Detector. This great 50 foot rock is excellent quality and easy to find. Robbins Crack was first climbed by Royal Robbins in the 60's.
Getting There
One switchback and 100 yards above tower two you will see a large boulder(on the right side of the road) with a finger crack running from bottom to top. This is lie Detector. The rock is 40 feet from the road on a well marked path. Go to left of the rock and climb up to back of rock to reach Robbins Crack.
This perfect hand crack is the Woodson classic. The rock is a little slick but keep your feet in the crack and you will have no problem. The crux is the first half of the climb. After the first 15 feet the crack widens for perect hands....[more]
Only one piece of protection is needed on Robbins Crack if you are going to lead it... a #12 curved stopper fits perfectly in the hole above when you are standing on the midway ledge. A pad can protect the moves to the ledge and the piece will protect you from hitting the ground from there.
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