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Jaws Boulder Area
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Worst Climb In The World 

California Night 

5.11b V2

   

FA: Bachar, Long, or Kauk 1970s
Type: Trad, TR, Boulder
Consensus: 5.11b V2 [details]
Length: 15 feet
Views: 519 page views

Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Jun 28, 2006


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Stack on his first ever attempt of California Nigh...


Description 

This sterling route climbs a steep finger crack for about 15 feet. A couple of good ring locks lead to a typical Woodson top-out crux. Those comfortable at the grade can easily boulder this, otherwise for the rest of us two bolts at the top provide an anchor for this classic problem.


Location 

After rounding the corner from the Uncertainty Principle Area, e.g., Pickpocket, continue past a heavily chalked "blasted boulder" to a tight left switchback. Looking up and to the right from this corner is a wide offwidth crack, beneath which, and not seen from the road, is California Night. Follow the trail from the road in, up and right to this gem!


Protection 

Two bolts for TR



Add Photo Photos of California Night
California Night (5.11a/b) ©

BETA PHOTO: California Night (5.11a/b) ©

Look for this wide crack on switchback before the Jaws Area to follow a faint trail to California Night (5.11a/b). ©

BETA PHOTO: Look for this wide crack on switchback before the ...

BVB pulling the crux move on California Night 5.11b

BVB pulling the crux move on California Night 5.11...


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Jun 28, 2006

To set up a TR, tunnel under the scrub oak to the right of the crack to gain the top. Another fun warm-up alternative is to go around the left of California Night and on the backside of the boulder and climb a 5.9 grainy/juggy face to set up.