Difficult free climb on thin crack. As aid climb use small nuts, cams and leaper hooks. Two good bolts at top for anchor. Could be good top rope to experience the grade. The crack is fingers at its widest point.
Protection
Small stuff. walk off back of boulder. two new bolts at top of climb.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 23, 2006 rating: 5.12a/b A0
Originally called "Victim of Aids," of the climbing variety I hope. Smearing with the feet on barely existent slopers on the left of the this thin crack is the key on the upper section of this stiffy. I've only seen this done a few times.
An interesting story on this one: when I was working this on tr a couple years ago a cool local came by and, while we were chatting, he told me about the origin of this climb. I’m forgetting his name but he’s the same guy that guy his leg stuck in Mother Superior for a really long time. So anyway, this used to be just a thin practice nailing route. As the crack got worn open a bit, some of the guys realized this might actually go free. At this point the route saw an up-tick in nailing practice. Coincidentally, a decent scar formed just within reach up the entire crack and the route was eventually freed; hence the name Aids Victim.
Sunday Afternoon Boulder
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