Obvious hand crack/flake with flared offwidth at top.There are two finishes on this short high quality climb. 1. at top of hand crack continue the last 10 feet up off width chimney (grind your way up). 2. Stand up and lie back the upper edge of the chimney(much easier)This is a good practise climb to get ready for other Woodson classics.
Protection
Use cams .75-2 the crack takes good pro and there are lots of good feet to the left of the crack as well as in the crack.Anchor by using red and yellow aliens or small cams in horizontal crack at ledge above climb.
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA Sep 22, 2006 rating: 5.8
There are bolts for an anchor. For entertainment value, climb the short face which the bolts reside on top of to finish off the climb.
By G.McCay From: San Diego, CA Apr 5, 2007 rating: 5.9
I rated this classic layback/highball 5.9 all the years I was on Woodson. See the barrel chested, Professor Keith Brueckner depicted on the cover of the 1987 Woodson guide on the same problem at: http://illusiondweller.blogspot.com/2006/03/professor-keith->>>>>