start as exit stage left but right at the roof, take the roof crack out and move into the dihedral above. pro in the initial crack will create rope drag, even with long slings.
Location
walkoff to the climbers right
Protection
no bolts, i used an offset nut at the lip the anchors at the top prohibit toproping this climb due to where they`re placed
There is a rap anchor, so this climb can be TR'd. You will need a way to extend the anchor 15+' over the lip of the climb. The crack can still pinch the rope so be careful.
This is a great Trad climb. I'd even give it 4 stars by MG standards. Its damn hard and even harder for short people. Also this climb is probably the best clean aid practice climb at Mission Gorge. Great practice for leader and follower.
no problem schlocker, I still recomend the lead on this gem, just be proficient at gear leads, it takes bomber gear but it has to be at the right spots to keep the rope from getting sucked into the crack. imho this route should not be obscure, its one of the best at mg.
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