The Rift. The top is the waterfall. The start ha...
Description
A very obvious line to the left of Vawter's Dihedral. A wide water polished crack that splits the rock all the way to the top. Full of features and smaller internal cracks so this is not an actual wide crack climb in the sense of technique.
A mildly overhanging crux start on polished rock leads to easier, yet still challenging climbing ahead.
Location
Limbo area, left of Vawter's Dihedral. Between two sport climbs. A wide crack on water polished rock leads to a chimney topout.
Protection
Route protects very well. Small to medium nuts and cams. Mind your pro at the start, it is a matter of protection over handholds which forces the leader to make smart decisions. Bolt anchor at the top, but a walk off (left).
Got the rope stuck while trying to lower off of this climb. If you plan to TR this climb bring an exceptionally long piece of webbing or static line or an extra rope. Maybe 20+ feet from bolts to rope snagging pinch at the top of the climb.
If you lead this climb just bring your second up from the top and avoid all of this rope-snaging altogether. Then a short walk off left.
slick indeed, the feet are tricky at the start, and for a non-gym climber this felt steep! Takes good gear though, although placing it was maybe the crux. Eases way up after 15 feet, pretty fun - stays in the shade longer than others.
I found it to be great test for a starting trad climber, fairly obvious gear placements, however being the first route I ever truly felt like I was placing gear on lead ( not on some easy peasy japanesey low angle scramble wanna be climb) It really challenged me mentally having committed myself now just placing solid gear and keep cruising.
Limbo Area
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