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Rectum Roof 

5.10b/c

   

FA: FTR: John Vawter & Mark Thorpe 1973 FL: Werner Landry 1975.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b/c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 72 page views

Submitted By: Jeffery on Aug 26, 2007


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Description 

Start by climbing up to a thin ledge then up past two bolts to a horizontal crack under a small roof. Traverse five feet left, using the horizontal crack till you reach a vertical crack that enters the roof overhead; this is the crux. Pull the roof and jam your way to the top till you reach a bolted anchor. This route should protect well, but the leader should be comfortable with the grade. A toprope can be set up on this route to work out the moves.


Location 

This climb is located on the Main Wall Center; Upper Tier Routes. Continue up past the Gallwas Crack to another ledge and gain purchase on top of a large boulder; should be able to see the two bolts at this point.


Protection 

This is a mixed lead that requires small gear up to three inches and also protects with two bolts. There are also bolted anchors at the top for rappelling and toproping. Double length slings will do the trick for a TR.



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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Apr 26, 2008

The bolted anchor is near, to climbers' left of a nice flat boulder that begs to be used as a seat. Walk up from The Blocks (way left).