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Orange Sunshine 

5.11a

   

FA: Let Me Know
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Season: Any
Views: 259 page views

Submitted By: mschlocker on Aug 13, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Orange Sunshine (or in this case, Orange Shadowlin...


Description 

Face climb starts on classic Mission Gorge polished grey slickrock and finishes on classic Mission Gorge sticky orange rock requiring delicate moves. Apparently going left at the third bolt is slightly easier. I would recommend straight up, bolt to bolt.

I have heard that there was a variant of LSD enjoyed by our troops in Vietnam back in that time known as Orange Sunshine. I have no idea if those who named this climb were aware of that, but it is an interesting fact.


Location 

Middle Earth area. Head up the trail to the Middle Earth sport climbing area. Up the steps, and veer right, in a canyon by The Overhangs. You will see an obvious orange wall on the left side with some bolts.


Protection 

4 shiny bolts with rap anchor.



Add Photo Photos of Orange Sunshine
Finishing the first, harder, crux move on Orange Sunshine. The first two moves on this have small hands and slick feet (the gray, rather than the orange or white granite) and require either an extremely trusting smear for the left foot, or a high foot on a tiny hold for your right foot, and a slight lieback on the crack feature.

BETA PHOTO: Finishing the first, harder, crux move on Orange S...

Making the high step and reach for the traverse move, second crux, on Orange Sunshine.

BETA PHOTO: Making the high step and reach for the traverse mo...

Pulling through the final small face move (5.9ish) to a rail of perfect jugs that signal the end of the business, and the beginning of the cruise right (5.5ish).

BETA PHOTO: Pulling through the final small face move (5.9ish)...

Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Orange Sunshine.

Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Or...

Rebecca Manley moving off the high right foot--the crux move--on Orange Sunshine.

BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley moving off the high right foot--the...

Rebecca Manley on the second crux move of Orange Sunshine.

BETA PHOTO: Rebecca Manley on the second crux move of Orange S...


Add Comment Comments on Orange Sunshine
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By Bill Olszewski
From: San Marcos, CA
Jan 27, 2008

This is the best face climb in MG, IMHO. For one thing, it isn't mostly over slick grey rock. The orange patina provides a nice bite for the shoes. Also, it has a rather nice sequence on tiny holds, requiring balance and some smearing. The left variation is at least a solid .10b.

Orange Sunshine, Yellow Sunshine, Blue Barrel and their progenitor, Purple Microdot, were all forms of LSD in pill form, available into the early '80s, not that I would know anything about that.