Eagle Peak - Restricted; Closed area changed to the left side of the main cliff. Corte Madera - Restricted; Closed area changed to the right/east side of the main cliff. Glen Cliff - Open. Poway Crags - CLOSED. El Cajon Mtn - Open.
Move upward using the main crack system to a sloping stance on highly textured, orange rock. Continue upward through the crux of the climb by stemming up a wide dihedral that is well protected with small gear in a thin crack on the left. Pull over a small roof and continue on easier ground to the anchor.
Make sure to bring small wires, even a couple rp's if you arent trusting your feet yet on mission gorge's slickery rock. The crack is pretty banged out, so trying to place cams seems tricky, sucks up the little wires though. This route would be ultra classic if it was longer and located somewhere beautiful.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Jan 27, 2008
Best crack in MG, IMHO. Sweet and fairly sustained for the grade; protects well on small pieces. Don't cheat yourself by starting from atop Lunch Rock - take this one right off the ground.
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