Mountain Project: Climbing San Diego County

Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Jan 25, 2006
Administrator: Marc Kajut
Latitude: 32.8187 Longitude: -117.0560
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Description

Mission Gorge is located in the Mission Trails Regional Park - http://www.mtrp.org. Routes include traditional, sport, and a few clean aid lines.

Getting There

From Interstate 8 - Take 8 to the Mission Gorge/Fairmount exit. Turn north onto Mission Gorge Road. Continue down Mission Gorge Road for approximately 4 miles. Look for the large wooden park sign on Mission Gorge Road. Turn left onto Father Junipero Serra Trail. Park along the road prior to the gates, or in the dirt parking lots next to the visitors center. The climbers loop trails are on the right side about 0.4 miles down Father Junipero Serra Trail as marked by kiosks.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mission Gorge:

The Stairs 5.4 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Lunch Rock

The Tower 5.7 Sport, 50 feet Limbo Area

The Ramp 5.7 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Lunch Rock

Skyline Arete 5.7+ Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Lunch Rock

Shadowfax 5.8 Trad, TR, 40 feet Middle Earth

Mission Control 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Lunch Rock

Turkey Chute 5.8 Trad, 45 feet Limbo Area

As the Crow Flies 5.8 Sport, 45 feet Limbo Area

Crack of Dust 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet Main Wall

Mission Gorge Traverse 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Main Wall

Gallwas Crack 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Main Wall

Hangman's Climb 5.9 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Main Wall

Suzie's Wild Ride 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Main Wall

Apostrophe 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet Limbo Area

Monkey Dance 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Limbo Area

Lord of the Rings 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet Middle Earth

Escapade 5.11a Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Main Wall

Orange Sunshine 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Middle Earth

Featured Route For Mission Gorge

Thomas Nowotny contemplating the second crux on Orange Sunshine.

Orange Sunshine 5.11a CA : San Diego County : ... : Middle Earth

Face climb starts on classic Mission Gorge polished grey slickrock and finishes on classic Mission Gorge sticky orange rock requiring delicate moves. Apparently going left at the third bolt is slightly easier. I would recommend straight up, bolt to bolt.I have heard that there was a variant of LSD enjoyed by our troops in Vietnam back in that time known as Orange Sunshine. I have no idea if those who named this climb were aware of that, but it...[more] Browse More Classics in CA

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