Black Castle 

FA:  Chris Hubbard, Brian Spiewak, Shannon Scott (2005) Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.11a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Season:  Cooler months Views: 420 page views Submitted By: mschlocker on May 7, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Four star sport route right up the center of the headwall of El Cajon Mt, El Cap Wall. Climb up steep rock to a roof. Pull through the roof onto more steep climbing above. A very "soft" 5.11. Mildly pumpy with mostly positive holds. Mental crux is the roof but technical crux actually occurs higher up when the pump starts to set in. Wild position on the headwall with steep yet straightforward climbing and an unusually "fun" roof give this climb two thumbs up. Rap anchor at top.

Location 

Just right of Tears of Envy (5.11b), use anchor just down and right of Tears anchor. Starts at the left of the wide vertical black streak at the headwall and finishes up in the right side of the streak. Look for the black roof about 1/3 of the way to the top out anchor which is visible from the start of the climb.

Unnamed route #58, which is actually drawn as #63 in the 10/2005 SDCC guide. Shown as project "P" in the Rock and Ice 9/2005 issue. Reach anchor via the supply line from the command center ledge.

Protection 

Bolts, rap anchor with steel 'biners.