El Cajon Wall is located in East San Diego County. It has been the subject of much joy and pain for many local climbers. Nevertheless, recent development of the area has produced a number of phenomenal routes. The area is primarily a sport climbing destination, but hiking out with a few cams won't disappoint the discerning trad climber.
Getting There
From highway 67 - take Mapleview Street, to El Monte Road. Continue on El Monte Road approximately 5.5 miles passing the El Monte County Park along the way. Park along the river side of the road near the gate to the El Capitan Reservoir. Follow the trail from the North side of the river basin to the Wall's base.
The route follows the corner that divides the tower from the main headwall. Start up the crack and huecos, staying in the corner and climbing past two bolts on 5.8 liebacks. Lieback and jam up the steepening corner and pull on slick jams into a pod. Place some good gear and pull the crux moves into the 5.9 corner above. Fun climbing in the clean corner leads to the top of triton tower....[more]
Currently the only guide to this area is online (excellent color pdf format), but no longer available since the SDCC website went down. Email me if you want a copy (grahamroff@hotmail.com).
Just a warning, some one "don't want to mention any names" has been chopping bolts and anchors all over the place at El Cajone Mountain. Be aware of this and inspect a route before you start to climb. If the bolts looks disfigured, it is a good bet that the bolt has been smashed and rendered useless.
I have heard of one report (not confirmed) of someone starting up a route only to find the second half of the route was chopped. This person was forced to run it out in order to get to another set of anchors.
This is extremely disappointing to see one of San Diego Counties best climbing areas being destroyed but it is so be careful.
Thats too bad. I'm heading out to visit in a couple weeks and really wanted to climb at El Cajon. I read about it in Rock and Ice and few months ago and it looks great. Anyone know how many routes are affected by the bolt chopping?
Why are they chopping bolts do they want to keep it traditional? Can you place trad gear in place of the bolts? Or is someone doing this to prevent climbers from climbing here?
I have been searching for a while now for current route conditions.
If you want the full on bolt chopping history, go to climbingsandiego.com. Read the first posted link, it lays it out there pretty well in a couple of letters from involved parties. Be prepared. This dude is psychotic.
If anyone has any current info on mutilated routes, it would be appreciated. We have been hearing stories of routes chopped after the 5th or 6th bolts, so it may not always be clear from the ground whether or not your route has been defiled. Very scary stuff indeed.
The latest issue of Rock and Ice has an article on the bolt chopper. This is a very worrisome and very dangerous development. Aside from that, I'm sure this person could be held legally liable if someone gets hurt - there is a such a thing as tort law in this country. The dispute apparently also involves the theft of a drill and of bolting equipment, the trashing of other peoples' bolting equipment and of a trail, as well as the destruction of some holds. Some of these involve eyewitnesses. Theft and vandalism are illegal and could serve as the basis for legal action.
Another guide exists. Check out CH's site at http://www.climbingtoposofsandiego.com/ for topos around San Diego. His ECM guide tends to be more accurate for the center routes than the other PDF guide.
El Cajon Mountain
Printer Friendly View
RSS Feed
