Theo stems and jams in the steep dihedral before t...
Description
The route follows the corner that divides the tower from the main headwall. Start up the crack and huecos, staying in the corner and climbing past two bolts on 5.8 liebacks. Lieback and jam up the steepening corner and pull on slick jams into a pod. Place some good gear and pull the crux moves into the 5.9 corner above. Fun climbing in the clean corner leads to the top of triton tower.
Location
Start at the base of Triton Tower just right of "The Swiftness" where the tower meets the headwall from various approach options. Rap from the top of Triton Tower by the standard rap route down the slabby face, then down from the Halcyon or Swiftness anchor to the base of the route. Two more raps lead to the ground.
Protection
.25 to 1.5" camming devices with many .5-1" pieces.
Fantastic climb, and arguably my favourite at El Cajon. Although Adam says several in the 0.5-0.75 range, I'd go ahead and extend that into the 1 range as well. It's a great pitch, takes some thinking, and has multiple cruxes to stay relatively sustained until close to the end when you'll cruise the last 25 feet to the finish...
If I remember correctly, there are some small alien placements in little pods down near the pin. The two bolts were on the ramp area. I would guess the bolt you clipped was the lower bolt, but I may be mistaken. I do remember options for gear (albeit in crappy rock) near the bolts. I believe they were in the #2 and #3 or #4 camalot range. The climbing near the bolts is relatively easy, though, and would be runout but not unreasonable without them. I'm told that Brian placed the pin on the FA (he didn't have the right size to fit properly), but not the bolts. Later, he cleaned loads of crappy rock and munge out of the crack near the bolts before deciding the rock quality was too poor and decided to place the bolts.
Center/Headwall
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