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Swiftness, The 

Storm 

5.10 PG13

   

FA: Randy Leavitt & Friends
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II
Season: Fall to Spring
Views: 158 page views

Submitted By: Graham Roff on Apr 17, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the second and third pitches from th...


Description 

This is one of the few routes up El Cap wall that goes mostly on natural protection. Four or five pitches take you all the way to the top.

P1 (5.10) - Start in a wide, dirty, burned out crack for 60 ft. Continue up the low angle, rubble strewn area with loose rock to a large ledge. Yep, the first pitch sucks. You can skip this by climbing the first pitch of Supply Line, slightly to the right.
P2 (5.6, listed as P3 in the guide) - From the middle of the big ledge climb easy terrain past 5 bolts and a few gear placements to the anchor more or less directly above.
P3 (5.10 PG13, P4 in the guide) - This is the crux pitch. Traverse slightly to the left from the belay, clipping one bolt before heading up the crack past another bolt. Continue up the arete placing gear where possible (PG13). At the large roof head up and left and belay either at the rap anchors in the face or continue up and left a little further to the large ledge (gear anchor).\
P4 (5.8 PG13, P5 in the guide) - From the large ledge climb through the tree straight up the offwidth, unprotected, wet crack past a solitary bolt. Pull over the roof to the right and wander upwards until the top.


Location 

From the top it is four rappels down to the bottom following a number of possible rappel lines.


Protection 

The protection is good on the first and second pitches (second pitch also has 5 bolts). The third pitch has a few bolts and protects somewhat poorly with small cams, PG13.
The last pitch has one bolt through the offwidth section, and abundant gear if necessary through the much easier section to the top.



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Mike going up the last pitch, just before pulling the last interesting move.

Mike going up the last pitch, just before pulling ...


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By Adam Kimmerly
Jan 17, 2007
rating: 5.10b PG13

Not worth the effort. P3 has some fun climbing, but the other pitches suck. There are plenty of good routes in the area and this isn't one of them.