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The Y Crack Area
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5.11 Problem, The 
Butthole Express 
Chimney 
Hairy Airy 
Y Crack, The 

Butthole Express 

5.8

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Views: 189 page views

Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 4, 2006


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BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top of the Butthole Express ...


Description 

This is the first route encountered at the Y Crack Area. It is a three bolt face route that ascends a short series of low angle bulges. Although the crux is mantling over the first bolt, the name comes from the handholds thereafter.


Protection 

3 bolts, but pro for the top anchor



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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Mar 4, 2006

Originally, this was the only bolted lead at Dixon Lake. It consisted of the first two bolts. A third bolt, which has been added sometime in the last couple of years, was always wanted but done traditionally without. Oddly, the Y Crack to the right has had a recently added bolts for a belay/TR set-up despite the obvious pro anchor, but this route which could have used a bolt anchor remains absent of.

By Bill Olszewski
From: San Marcos, CA
Jan 27, 2008

Onsight with no issue. Since then, can't figure my way through it - what the zork am I doing wrong?