Eagle Peak - Restricted; Closed area changed to the left side of the main cliff. Corte Madera - Restricted; Closed area changed to the right/east side of the main cliff. Glen Cliff - Open. Poway Crags - CLOSED. El Cajon Mtn - Open.
This oldie but goody lies in north Escondido, in the city park of Dixon Lake. Dixon Lake climbing area is a small outcrop of rocks, that has several very clean cracks and faces for the novice/intermediate to set up. Its been used and abused, with partiers and cavalier bolters having their way with the place, but beyond the ill-treated history lies several routes that will remain worthy of many new climbers aspirations. Some bouldering exists, although compared to other areas it may seem a bit contrived. Locals have done every line on every boulder and recorded so. Its history dates back to the 70's, but the real action took place in the 80's/early 90's. In the 80's folks like Andy Redding, Tim Gallagher and Ed Worsman cleaned up several lines and laid the way for the 90's with the likes of Verdugo, DanO, Stackhouse and several others. Prior to regional guidebooks, this area was known as Eagles Peak.
Getting There
Via I15, exit El Norte Parkway and head east. Follow this for about 4 miles until the park sign appears to one's left. Turn left here on La Honda Drive. Following this one mile up the steep road, where one can get a glimpse of the crags on the right up on the hill. At the park entrance, follow the signs to "Trout Cove" parking lot. Park here and jog across the road to a trail that gives one a visual of the first part of Dixon Lake Crags in about 30 seconds. There is a $5 per vehicle day-use charge on weekends and holidays. Because of the potential problem with poaching, visitors to the rocks are encouraged to observe the closing time of the lake to avoid a potential citation. Entrance is free during the week.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dixon Lake:
Careful about going on Saturday mornings. A few organized groups climb here. Once saw 3 groups of about 10-15 people each climbing here. It didn't leave many climbs left to climb. But still a fun area.
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