Eagle Peak - Restricted; Closed area changed to the left side of the main cliff. Corte Madera - Restricted; Closed area changed to the right/east side of the main cliff. Glen Cliff - Open. Poway Crags - CLOSED. El Cajon Mtn - Open.
A fine south-facing multi-pitch crag in San Diego county. Corte Madera has a history of both traditional and sport routes. The traditional routes will offer adventure with some en-route bushwhacking. The newer sport routes climb the clean faces of this impressive cliff. The climbs are most easily approached by hiking to the top of the cliff and rappelling to the base.
Getting There
From San Diego, head out East on I-8. Exit Buckman Springs and head South of the freeway. Right on Corral Canyon road (Morena Stokes Rd on Google). Park 4.9 miles up the road and hike in on a trail to your right (1.5-2 hours). If you have 4WD then continue up the road. Head right onto a dirt road at the first intersection and follow this to within a 1/2 hour of the top of the cliff. I'll have to verify all of this next time I head out there, please check a map.
Access
Please note that there is a voluntary seasonal closure of anything West (Climbers' Left) of the center of the main wall due to nesting raptors. Feb 1 - June 30.
Route Guides
The latest (2006) Kennedy climbing guide is a vast improvement from the older guide for this area. It includes many of the newer sport routes. Currently this is the only printed guide (that I know of) for this area.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Corte Madera:
Now a new guide option is available. The Allied Climbers of San Diego have created a guide for El Cajon Mtn, Eagle Peak, and Corte Madera. It's quite a bit better than the SD climbing guide for Corte. I recommend you check it out at a local REI or better yet come to a member meeting. http://www.alliedclimbers.org .
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