Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Onyx Summit Crag
Show routes:
Select route...
Big BM 
Clip Art 
Cliptomania 
Opiate 
Palm Pilot 

Opiate 

5.11c

   

FA: Chris Miller 5/01
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Season: All year (depending upon snowfall)
Views: 102 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Mar 12, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Description 

Starting from the left side of a small ledge 10' off the ground and just left of the start of Cliptomania (5.12a) climb straight up the center of the main pillar.

Thin, crimpy and somewhat painful moves (5.11c) over a bulge provide the first crux, which once past lead to easy ground in the middle of the face and a rest before the second and final crux. Clip a directional bolt and then launch up the amazing white headwall (5.11a) using the plentiful edges to decipher a somewhat tricky sequence enroute to the sport anchors atop the route.

The lower moves on this are more difficult than enjoyable and the lack of continuous climbing detracts from the overall experience, but the upper moves are superb and (imo) well worth enduring the lower portion of the route.


Location 

Located up the middle of the main pillar and between Palm Pilot and Cliptomania


Protection 

9 bolts, 2 bolt lower-off



Add Comment Comments on Opiate
Show which comments
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.11c

I liked the sharp crimps at the start, and I loved the finishing moves up the wall of the pyramid. The moves up to the 3rd bolt on the headwall felt hard for 11a, more like 11b.