Doug's Dilemma 

FA:  (TR) Doug Odenthal, 1980's (lower portion only), FL: Brian Cullen, 6/02 Type:  Sport, Chipped Consensus:  5.13a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 93 page views Submitted By: Chris Miller on Mar 29, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Just right of Gravitational Humiliation (5.11c) and left of Boilermaker (5.10d) is this difficult route, with distinctive gold-colored hangers, that is one of only two 5.13 routes on the wall.

A bouldery start gains a high first bolt above which interesting and somewhat sustained climbing (5.11) past three more bolts reach the 5th and final bolt. Above, the difficulty increases significantly as you encounter the bouldery crux which guards the topout to the belay ledge.

Originally done in the 1980's as a 5.11 toprope problem that ended below the top at an apparently "blank" section of rock, this was later done on TR with all of the moves being done (5.13c ?) but not linked. Sometime later an unknown individual enhanced holds at the top making this just a bit easier; for the record the first lead was not done by the mystery chipper. Sadly, despite the difficulty of this route, this could have been a testpiece were it left unaltered.

Protection 

5 bolts, bolted anchor/rap