Chris Lane finishing the lower slab and about to t...
Description
Although you may be tempted to jump on this one from just right of Snelled Hook, you'd be missing some of the best climbing on this route as El Gancho is an interesting mix of slab, crack and face climbing. Scramble down the notch towards the start of By Hook or Crook. Climb the slab past a bolt to gain the short crack. The crux comes while working the crack up to plates on the right. Top out with an easy finish on large plates. Rappel or walk left to descend.
Location
This is the third bolt line, counting from the climber's left.
Protection
4 bolts, bolted anchor shared with By Hook or Crook
By C Miller Administrator Jun 29, 2009 rating: 5.10b
Balancy lieback moves down low are the crux but the lieback higher requires some thought. Don't blow the third clip or risk decking on the slab at the base.
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA Jul 28, 2009 rating: 5.10b
Oh, wow.....we agree Chris!! (teehee). Yep, tough .10b moves through the shallow crack section. Almost blew the clip at bolt #3.....was getting a bit pumped. All of Holcomb heard my whimpering that day!
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