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DescriptionVoodoo Garden is a new area north of the central pinnacles, mostly developed by Brad Singer and members of the Rim of the World Climbing Club in the summer of 2007, although there were a few pre-existing routes put up by Chris Miller. It is a collection of walls and large blocks, with several moderate to advanced sport routes, and some interesting cracks. At the top of the hill, Katrina Wall dominates the formation and is easily seen from the road approaching the north parking lot for the central pinnacles. Other walls of note are the east-facing One-Eyed Cat Wall which lies just to the southwest of Katrina Wall and the south-facing Peyronie's Wall. Getting ThereTo find the Voodoo Garden, walk back along the road that brought you to the north parking lot, about 1/4 of a mile. You will see Voodoo Garden on the hillside to your left, just after walking past the first hill on your left. Follow along the left (south) side of the stream bed and cross to the north as you get close to the rocks. Peyronie’s is the short wall straight ahead, Other formations are farther up the hill to the left and require some scrambling. Allow ten minutes to hike from the north parking lot. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Voodoo Garden:
Had a Lean on My Sole 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet One-Eyed Cat Wall
Bourbon Street 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Katrina Wall
When the Levee Breaks 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Katrina Wall
Voodoo Glow Skulls 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet One-Eyed Cat Wall
One-Eyed Cat 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet One-Eyed Cat Wall
Mask of the Devil 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet One-Eyed Cat Wall
El Gancho 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet Peyronie's Wall
Mardi Gras 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Katrina Wall
Iceman Cometh 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet One-Eyed Cat Wall
By Hook or Crook 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Peyronie's Wall
Featured Route For Voodoo Garden
Mardi Gras 5.10b CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Katrina Wall
Mardi Gras starts on the right side of the wall, next to a wide, right-slanting crack. Head straight up to the bulging overlap. Pull the bulge and continue up and right on solid holds, sometimes jugs, sometimes thin. Balance and footwork is the key. At the smooth patina face, find a few key holds and crank through. Finish up and left over soft knobs and dishes (what I considered to be the crux) to reach the anchor. Rappel to descend....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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