Soloing Shantytown Swing. Continue above the anch...
Description
The "Swing" begins by scrambling up and on top of the perched block between Psychedelic Sluice (5.6) and Out of Our Mines (5.10c). From the top of the block, clip a bolt and continue up past 4 more bolts to a 2 bolt chain anchor. Fun moves up plates and friction up top.
Location
This is the bolted face just right of Psychedelic Sluice.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 28, 2007
If I understand the description properly, I'd have to say it's much more fun to start this route direct, up the crack on the left side of the block. Fun climb, great lead for the beginners.
The route can be started either way (from the block or the ground), but the direct is better imo. Perhaps a little tougher (?), and a little more strenuous, but gear (2-2.5") could be placed if desired/needed on the direct start.
Orignally done with three bolts (the 2nd, 4th and 5th) and no anchor; the route was later retro-bolted to make it a fun lead for 5.6 climbers.
By Jon Leicht From: Santee, CA Jun 14, 2008 rating: 5.6
The direct layback start was much more fun, and not more than a half grade harder.
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