Start by making committed friction moves; working up and left to a bolt on the small roof above. Crank the roof and rocker up (the crux), passing a horizontal crack (Camelot #2 optional). Continue above, passing three more bolts while climbing a steep friction face with fun slopers and dishes. The finish of the route passes a small roof and on up to a two bolt anchor with chains.
Location
This route is located on the east face of Wilbur's Tombstone, 10 feet left of Pumped Up Woman (5.8).
My personal view of the route: it definitely deserves AT LEAST 2-stars for a rating! This route kept me entertained and felt more sustained than the routes to the right (Pumped Up Woman and Rap Bolters Will be Pursecuted). There were no dirty/chossy sections and the crux was more committing than most (with a slight deck potential). Having compared the crux to a host of others with that rating and with what the book rates it, I would have to say it is at least 5.9+.
By Euan Cameron Administrator From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes May 26, 2008 rating: 5.9
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