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Central Pinnacles

Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 14, 2007
Administrator: C Miller
Elevation: 7,500 feet
Views: 46,846 page views

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High above the trees on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holco...


Description 

This area covers all of the formations from the northern parking area south to Camp Rock and includes Coyote Crag, Claim Jumper Wall, Pistol Whipped Wall, Motherlode Rock, Gunsmoke Wall, Thunderbird Wall and much more.

This area truly is the heart of the Pinnacles and offers the greatest concentration of routes with the least amount of hiking in the entire region. The abundance of well-protected, featured moderates in the area makes it especially popular during the height of the season, so be warned if seeking solitude.

Don't miss climbs of the area include Gold Standard (5.6), Bye Crackie (5.7), Coyotes at Sunset (5.8), Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Claim Jumper (5.10a), One Armed Bandit (5.10a), Ricochet (5.10a), Pistol Pete (5.10a), Coyotes in the Henhouse (5.10d), Stake Your Claim (5.10d) and The Incinerator (5.12a).


Getting There 

The northern parking area is located at the edge of the Central Pinnacles, making it an obvious choice to park and walk the 5-10 minutes required to reach any of the crags in the Central Pinnacles.

It's also possible to park at the southern parking area, near Parking Lot Rock, and walk north for 10 minutes to reach the southern end of the area near Coyote Crag.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Central Pinnacles:
Gold Standard   5.6     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Gold Wall
Psychedelic Sluice   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Wildrose   5.6     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Medicine Man   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Thunderbird Wall
Bye Crackie   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Coyote Crag
Shoot at Will   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Tombstone Pit
Coyotes at Sunset   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Coyote Crag
Black Magic Poodle   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Coyote Crag
Whiptail   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Golden Poodle   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Coyote Crag
Ricochet   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Pistol Whipped Wall
One Armed Bandit   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Claim Jumper Wall
Pistol Pete   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Doc Holiday Wall
Claim Jumper   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Claim Jumper Wall
Golden Nugget   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - East Face
Powder Keg   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Motherlode Rock : Motherlode Rock - North Fac...
Tombstone Shadow   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Tombstone Pit
Coyotes in the Henhouse   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Claim Jumper Wall
Doc's Holiday   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Doc Holiday Wall
Unforgiven   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Doc Holiday Wall
Browse More Classics in Central Pinnacles

Featured Route For Central Pinnacles
Jayson Matthews blasting through Doc's Holiday, 5.11a, on the Doc Holiday Wall.

Doc's Holiday 5.10d  CA : San Bernardino Mountains : ... : Doc Holiday Wall
Easy moves past three bolts lead up a featured face to the base of the smooth headwall. Clip the 4th bolt and then head up the steep, smooth face using small but positive crimps that appear just as you need them. After clipping the last bolt head straight up on jugs to finish on a small ledge with anchors. The bottom portion of this was originally climbed via a loose hand crack to the right; years later a direct start was added which bo...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Central Pinnacles Slideshow Add Photo
Christian Daly floats up the HVP classic, 'Bye Crackie' (5.7)

Christian Daly floats up the HVP classic, 'Bye Cra...

Baby rattler just off the trail near the Claimjumper Wall, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

Baby rattler just off the trail near the Claimjump...

Midway up Hidden Gold (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

Midway up Hidden Gold (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pinnac...

Nearing the top of Powder Keg (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

Nearing the top of Powder Keg (5.10a), Holcomb Val...

Climber on the <a href='/v/california/san_bernardino_mountains/holcomb_valley_pinnacles/105837586'>Thunderbird Wall</a>, in the beautiful Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

Climber on the Thunderbird Wall, in the beautiful Hol...

a beautiful day on the Lizard Head.

a beautiful day on the Lizard Head.

rope bags have other uses, you know...

rope bags have other uses, you know...

Mt. San Gorgonio from the central pinnacles.

Mt. San Gorgonio from the central pinnacles.

A portion of the road into the Central Pinnacles, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

A portion of the road into the Central Pinnacles, ...

Old marker for the nearby Mammoth Mine, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

Old marker for the nearby Mammoth Mine, Holcomb Va...

An overview map with some climbs to get your bearings.

BETA PHOTO: An overview map with some climbs to get your beari...

Moonshine Dome

Moonshine Dome