Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Motherlode Rock - East Face
Show routes:
Select route...
Belleville 
Black Bart 
Blasting Cap 
Fire in the Hole 
Fools Gold 
Golden Nugget 
Motherlode 
Out of our Mines 
Psychedelic Sluice 
Shantytown Swing 
Wildrose 

Black Bart 

5.11b

   

FA: Chris Miller & Rick Shull 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 172 page views

Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 14, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Helen on the lower half of Black Bart.


Description 

Located just right of Motherlode (5.11b) and 10' left of Psychedelic Sluice (5.6), a low-angled, splitter hand crack.

Climb a vertical, black face with edges up and left past three bolts to a ledge, then continue up the slab above past two more bolts to a difficult crux that's not especially fun. Once past the crux, one more bolt of easy climbing leads to the top. It's possible to combine the lower half of this route with the upper half of Motherlode to get a fun, well-protected 5.10 route. It's also possible to combine the lower half of Motherlode with the upper portion of this route to get a thin, crimpy 5.11 route.

This was one of the first routes on the wall and originally had four bolts (the 2nd, 3rd, 5th and 6th) and no anchors, but was later retrobolted to make it a better protected - unfortunately the crux remains unappealing.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchor



Comments on Black Bart Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007

We TR'd this a couple seasons ago. Great vertical 5.10 crimps down low and blank slab up high. I thought the crux was passing the first bolt on the slab? (4th bolt)

By Tozankyaku
Sep 8, 2009

I thought the crux is on the face between the 2 and 3 bolt the entire upper section is just a walk up friction climb maybe 5.10b tops.