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Motherlode Rock - East Face
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Motherlode 

5.11b

   

FA: Chris Miller & Jake Colella 5/00
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Views: 87 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Mar 14, 2007


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Tom Donnely above the crux of Motherload.


Description 

Climbs the narrow face between Golden Nugget (5.10a) on the left and Black Bart (5.11b) on the right. It's notable that the first bolt on the route is black and the second bolt is tan, which may help identify this route further.

A boulder problem start (crux) on thin edges with poor feet is encountered before the first bolt, after which the climbing is no harder than 5.10; one more bolt leads to a ledge. Make some cool stemming moves off the ledge and finish up an arete to anchors.

A little squeezed down low, but the climbing is fairly good and higher the routes on either side diverge. It's possible to combine the lower half of Black Bart with the upper portion of this route to get a fun 5.10 route. You can also combine the lower half of this route with the upper half of Black Bart to get a 5.11 route with two cruxes.


Protection 

5 bolts, chain anchor