Starts just right of Lucky Cuss (5.10d) in a steep, slanting crack system.
Lieback the crack and then head up the face above, with the crux being an awkward and somewhat balancy mantle at mid-height. Finishes up easier face to the anchors.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com May 14, 2007
Doing this route by following the holds instead of the bolt line will make the 6th (?) bolt almost unclippable way out to your right. You can skip it with little worries.
By Euan Cameron Administrator From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes May 21, 2007 rating: 5.10c
Committing to the crux early makes this route easier - as soon as you get your feet high, all the weight comes of your hands, and the crimps feel so much better - fun route.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Jun 1, 2008 rating: 5.10b
The mid-way bulge has good edges and feet but the lichen made me feel insecure. Afterwards, I looked down at my feet and realized I was on a golfball size hold.
Russ is mistaken. No 6th bolt and the last bolt is directly below the anchor and in line with the route.
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