The Angry Inch 

FA:  Chris Miller and Pete Paredes, 8/01 Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.10d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 40 feet Views: 196 page views Submitted By: C Miller on Apr 5, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Sloping Beauty (5.10b), The Angry Inch (5.10d) and...

Description 

Located on the far-left side of the east face, this is actually on the southeast corner of the formation and starts behind a small tree.

Boulder up a left-slanting rail to a high first bolt and then work up and right on crimpy edges (5.10+) to snag a jug at the 3rd bolt. From here you have two choices: 1) the original finish - which works up featured rock, clips the last bolt up and left of the arete and then mantles onto the south face where a short bit of face climbing leads to anchors. 2) a newer direct finish - from the third bolt continue straight up, clipping a bolt on the right side of the arete and finish up with the crux of The Longest Yard (5.10a).

A fun, bouldery route which is even better with the newer direct finish, but unfortunately the fun is over all too soon.

Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchors