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Lost Orbit Rock - East Face
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Angry Inch, The 
Grin and Bear It 
Hubble 
Longest Yard, The 
Lost Highway 
Lost Orbit 
Love at First Bight 
Lunar Eclipse 
Nowhere To Go But Down 
Real Men of Genius 
Road Crew 
Silly Millimeter 
Slacker 
Sloping Beauty 
Stand Up Comedy 
You Know What I'm Going To Do To You? 

Real Men of Genius 

5.10a

   

FA: Chuck Scott, Chris Miller, Loren Scott & Pete Paredes, 8/03
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 304 page views

Submitted By: C Miller on Mar 31, 2006


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Making the span on Real Men of Genius (5.10a/b), H...


Description 

Just right of Slacker (5.10c) and 25' left of Nowhere To Go But Down (5.11d) is this climb up a smooth face with a greenish tinge.

A short, kinda grainy left-facing corner leads to a ledge below a smooth face with green lichen. Clip a high bolt and make a fingery traverse left with technical feet to a good edge and a break below a small roof. Undercling out right and weave your way along the upper face on sloping ledges.

Enjoyable moves on this varied and technical outing.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors



Photos of Real Men of Genius Slideshow Add Photo
Helen Shull attempting the tricky crux of Real Men of Genius.

Helen Shull attempting the tricky crux of Real Men...

Slacker (5.10c) on the left and Real Men Of Genius (5.10a/b) on the right.

BETA PHOTO: Slacker (5.10c) on the left and Real Men Of Genius...

Susan at the anchors on Real Men of Genius (5.10a/b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

Susan at the anchors on Real Men of Genius (5.10a/...


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By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Jun 30, 2008

Good hands and "marginal feet" - that sums it up. If you can read the rock (unlike I did) you'll float this lower section.