BETA PHOTO: Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pi...
Description
Head up past the starts of Pistol Pete and Doc's Holiday and then scramble atop a block to gain the start of this route.
Lieback a large, left-facing flake past two bolts which pinches down a bit higher forming a small roof. Clip the 3rd bolt and then fire over the roof (5.11) on slick edges until possible to gain the security of a finger slot. From here climb the right arete/face of the formation (5.9) past two bolts to anchors on a ledge.
Good moves on this route but lacking the continuous nature of the routes further left it's not quite a classic.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Mar 3, 2007 rating: 5.11c
Difficult moves with long reaches and committing. Hard for the grade IMO.
~Susan
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Jun 1, 2008 rating: 5.11c
Ok, tried it again a year later. The thing is still hard getting past the 3rd bolt. Key holds are there but difficult to release to get them without falling. Harder than it looks.
Nonetheless I got the rope to the anchor. Next time, no hanging at the crux.
This route is a classic example on how it only takes one move to dictate the grade. The bottom & top sections are significantly easier to ascend.
Tricky bouldery crux, with an annoying dead bush in your face right as you finish the sequence. Battle the remanants of the bush for a move or two with bad feet then it's a stroll to the top. Good route that suffers a bit from its non-continuous nature and malevolent deceased flora. 2/5 stars for the area. Compared to other ratings in the area, I'd say it's on the stiff side, but the area as a whole feels a tad soft, so maybe just call it "5.11".
Doc Holiday Wall
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