Jayson Matthews blasting through Doc's Holiday, 5....
Description
Easy moves past three bolts lead up a featured face to the base of the smooth headwall. Clip the 4th bolt and then head up the steep, smooth face using small but positive crimps that appear just as you need them. After clipping the last bolt head straight up on jugs to finish on a small ledge with anchors.
The bottom portion of this was originally climbed via a loose hand crack to the right; years later a direct start was added which boosted the popularity of this quality route.
Location
Scramble up 20' right of Pistol Pete to reach this area classic which tackles the smooth-looking face up the middle of the formation.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Jun 1, 2008 rating: 5.11a
This too is a great route. The crimps creak a bit but held my bacon so they were solid enough. As in the description, the crimpy holds show up just as you need them and all the clipping stances are solid.