Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Doc Holiday Wall
Show routes:
Select route...
Doc's Holiday 
Far Beyond Driven 
Loose Women, Loose Rock 
Pistol Pete 
Quick on the Draw 
Skyline Pillar 
Unforgiven 

Pistol Pete 

5.10a

   

FA: Chris Miller, Pete Paredes & Chuck Scott, 7/01
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Season: Spring - Fall
Views: 387 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Mar 21, 2006


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Unknown climber at the last bolt of Pistol Pete (5...


Description 

This area classic starts 15' right of Quick On The Draw (5.11a) and climbs the right side of a dark slab before heading up the left side of the main face.

Climb the slab passing two bolts (use a long draw or runner on the 2nd bolt) to a sloping ledge below the main face. Clip the third bolt, work up and right via an undercling flake and then continue up the featured face/arete to a small stance at the 7th bolt. Above here the climb changes character (again) and finishes up the exposed slabby arete via delicate, balancy moves.


Protection 

8 bolts, chain anchors



Add Photo Photos of Pistol Pete
The initial slab of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

The initial slab of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb V...

High above the treetops on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

High above the treetops on Pistol Pete (5.10a), Ho...

Larry lie-backing on a perfect, strong side pull.  To the right of the third bolt is a slightly overhanging section.  Grabbing this side pull and walking up the ramp simplifies getting through this crux.  The next hold, above and to the left in white, appears to be a pinch, but has a nice jug slightly to the left.

BETA PHOTO: Larry lie-backing on a perfect, strong side pull. ...

Dan finishing his lead of Pistol Pete.  Shown is almost the entire route (misses the slabby beginning).  Near the top, hands run out and slab technique must take over.  Look for solid feet to the right, and stretch out for good hands near the anchor. Climb exploits all sorts of techniques--very interesting!

BETA PHOTO: Dan finishing his lead of Pistol Pete. Shown is a...

Nearing the top of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

Nearing the top of Pistol Pete (5.10a), Holcomb Va...

The super fun undercling section of Pistol Pete.

The super fun undercling section of Pistol Pete.

Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

BETA PHOTO: Photo topo for Doc Holiday Wall, Holcomb Valley Pi...


Add Comment Comments on Pistol Pete
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 16, 2007
rating: 5.10b

This is about the longest line in the Pinnacles, and a lot of fun! Definitely has a wide variety of character. The crux is pulling the small headwall just off the ledge. There is a sweet secondary crux up high on the thin slab. As is par for the area, this route is well-protected.

By susan peplow
From: what day is this?
Jun 1, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b

I've done this route a few times now and am never disappointed. The slab start, under cling, and thinning arete up top make for varied climbing. Agreed this route is well protected and a great lead.

Nice work.