Unknown climber on Black Magic Poodle (5.9), Holco...
Description
Begin this route by climbing a steep slab (formed by a log wedged against the face) until possible to grab some holds and pull onto the rock. Once on the rock climb up to a bulge which can be pulled directly or (easier) slightly to the left. Higher, interesting face climbing on good holds leads to a steep finish with amazingly good holds. The route ends at a bolted anchor where the angle kicks back.
Lots of fun climbing on this with a few tricky moves down low and a slightly pumpy finish on incut holds.
Location
This is the left-most climb on the crag, is located just left of the route Golden Spike (5.10b) and easily indentified by the log wedged against the face.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 19, 2007 rating: 5.9
Fun, steep, positive and highly recommended. Crux maybe exiting the first bolt, but a pump crux awaits those who take the grade for granted. Make extra sure to watch out for the wild poodles that have wandered in from JTree to the base of this climb, along with the unprotected tree trunk moves before the first clip.
Definitely a fun route. The opening slab moves (of the tree trunk) are quite slick; I think we need to knock an old piton into the wood. One o' these days the trunk will rot away and the climb will get a lot harder. ;-)
By Rick Shull Administrator From: Arcata, CA Jun 17, 2007 rating: 5.9
There was once a bolt on the log. It must have been chopped.
Coyote Crag
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