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Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
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DescriptionThe Holcomb Valley Pinnacles are located just north of Big Bear Lake in the eastern end of the scenic Holcomb Valley, an area rich in history and diversions for the outdoor enthusiast. Popular for it's numerous sport routes, this area is a moderate mecca with 75% of the 300+ routes being 5.10 and under in difficulty. Getting There (Southern Parking Area)These directions will get you to the southern parking area, which is recommended if you are driving a low-clearance vehicle, and/or planning on climbing at the southern/central Pinnacles.
Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a left (heading west). Drive 0.6 miles, passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on the right, and make a right onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp and several dips in the road (often several feet deep with water in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.
Highway 18 to Big Bear and then make a right (staying on Hwy 18) heading towards Baldwin Lake. Circle around Baldwin Lake (often dry in the summer) and then make a right onto Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09). Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a left (heading west). Drive 0.6 miles, passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on the right, and make a right onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp and several dips in the road (often several feet deep in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock.
Take Polique Canyon Road (2N09) north as it climbs along it's scenic namesake canyon, crest a hill and then descend the backside to a long straightaway which passes a large Boy Scout Camp. Make a right onto 3N16, go up a small rise and make an immediate left onto 3N07. Drive north along 3N07 passing Wilbur's Grave, a Boy Scout Camp and several dips in the road (often several feet deep in the early spring) until you can make a right which parallels a fence on the right. Follow this road until it ends at a large parking area just below Parking Lot Rock. Getting There (Northern Parking Area)These directions will get you to the northern parking area, which is recommended if you are driving a higher-clearance vehicle, and/or planning on climbing at the central/northern Pinnacles
Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a right (heading east). Drive 1.4 miles and make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.
Highway 18 to Big Bear and then make a right (staying on Hwy 18) heading towards Baldwin Lake. Circle around Baldwin Lake (often dry in the summer) and then make a right onto Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09). Take Van Dusen Canyon Road (3N09) to it's end at a junction with 3N16 and make a right (heading east). Drive 1.4 miles and make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone.
Take Polique Canyon Road (2N09) north as it climbs along it's scenic namesake canyon, crest a hill and then descend the backside to a long straightaway which passes a large Boy Scout Camp. Make a right onto 3N16, go up a small rise and continue east (passing the Holcomb Valley Campground on your left) for 1.8 miles until possible to make a left onto 3N32. Follow this as it winds it's way north and then eventually west until you come to a fork in the road with a cairn. Make a left here, right takes you onto the John Bull Trail, and continue as it heads west and then back south. The last bit of the road passes between some boulders which larger trucks/SUV's may not fit through, so drive at your own risk (parking is available along the road before the boulders if needed). Continue a short distance to a large parking area near Wilbur's Tombstone. CampingCamping is free and legal almost anywhere in the forest surrounding the Pinnacles, but there are a number of already established campsites near the northern and southern parking areas, as well as scattered sites to the west of Parking Lot Rocks. Fire restrictions are commonly in effect during the summer months, meaning no open fires, but stoves are usually not a problem. Climbing GearIf sport climbing nothing more than a dozen draws are needed and if climbing some of the traditional routes a standard rack to 3" should suffice for the majority of the routes. GuidebooksHidden Treasures, the only comprehensive guidebook for this area, is currently out of print although a revised and updated 2nd edition is currently in the works. Overall a good book if you can find one but be aware that being older many new routes are not included in it and a number of the ratings are suspect.
Featured Route For Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
 Right of Lost Orbit (5.10b/c) is this great route which was one of the first on the wall.Stem up and left off a ramp (5.10a) and onto a vertical face with patina plates which is climbed for several bolts to a small roof/overlap at the 4th bolt. Pull over the bulge, clip the next bolt and make some balancy moves (5.10) getting stood up to clip the sixth bolt. The moves past the last bolt require a high step/reach combo on less than ideal holds ...[more]
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