Located 10' left of Redrum (5.11c) near a chossy section of rock. This route is fairly new and still in the process of cleaning; it should be better once it gets more traffic.
Climb a glue-reinforced pillar of rock to devious moves past the second bolt (crux), then up over a roof and lieback a series of left-facing flakes until able to cut right to shared anchors with Redrum. Note: the route traverses a bit near the top which makes it hard to clean your draws off - it's probably best to pull the rope through and follow it on toprope.
There's some good climbing on this route, but the loose rock makes it heads up for the belayer.
By Colin Parker From: Pasadena, CA Jun 8, 2009 rating: 5.10c/d
Fun climbing up the pillar at first takes you into a sketchy section of looser rock above the second bolt. As of June 7th, this section still needs a bit of clean-up, especially on the left hand side. If you stick with the lie-back on the right, you should be ok. A lot of the larger blocks in this area seem very precarious, and I was a bit spooked by the one block which has a bolt and a chain securing it to the main wall. Is that really gonna hold anything? I figure that the first ascent party probably tugged at and jumped on the blocks to ensure they are secure...
RSS Feed
