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Taboo Area
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A Handful Of Harpies 
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Violator 

Violator 

5.11c

   

FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 181 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 11, 2007


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Just below the upper crux of Violator (5.11c), Riv...


Description 

Located midway between the obvious left-facing corner of Taboo (5.12c) and Magic Mushroom (5.11b), this climbs a series of steep flakes two routes right of Original Sin (5.11a).

Start up a short section of easy slab to the base of a left-facing flake system which is jammed/liebacked to a cruxy sequence transitioning into another flake system; being tall helps, as does good technique. Once established in the upper flake continue to race the pump as you climb the spectacular flake system, finishing with a second crux as you work fingery edges up and left, and then back right to anchors on a ledge.

Athletic and pumpy for the grade with great positioning, this route is a highly recommended route for the grade that serves as an ideal warm-up for the harder lines in the area. There is an extension route to this called Wicked Violator (5.13a)**** - 17 bolts to anchors.


Protection 

12 bolts, ring anchors



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By Chris Miller
Administrator
Apr 2, 2008

Originally started from a ledge below the start of the flake system, but there's now two bolts to start from the ground. Make sure to use a 70 meter rope if belaying from the ground or be extra careful when lowering off.