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The Sweetest Thing 

5.12b

   

FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 293 page views

Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 8, 2007


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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Adam on "The Sweetest Thing"


Description 

Moderate climbing (5.9) leads up large, positive holds to a prominent bulge which defines the crux. A short and powerful sequence of smeared feet and some small edges gain a distant jug (easier for taller climbers). Once through the crux an enjoyable section of vertical face climbing on intriguing rock (5.10) ends at a spacious ledge with anchors.

A powerful and somewhat height-dependant move make this a route you'll either love or hate. An extension to this route exists and is called Stranger than Friction (5.12b), 16 bolts to anchors.


Location 

Just left of Ground Zero, a prominent right-facing corner system which starts about 40' off the ground and roughly 100' left of Tangerine Dream a striking orange streak of rock.


Protection 

9 bolts, ring anchors



Photos of The Sweetest Thing Slideshow Add Photo
At the Crux

At the Crux


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By HeatherB-Radley
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 2, 2009

Might be late in the season after a long period of no rain--- but make sure you don't mind climbing through inch thick mounds of birdshit for the first 1/2 of the route....ewww. belayers get to share in the joy too- they get to stand in it and enjoy the birdshit crumbles falling in their face as they watch the climber......