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Whammy 

5.10a

   

FA: Louie Anderson, 2005
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 203 page views

Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 8, 2007


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Beginning the crux sequence of Whammy (5.10b), Riv...


Description 

Located about 80' left of a a prominent orange streak of rock that characterizes the area (Tangerine Dream, 5.11a). The route starts on a narrow, left-slanting ramp of rock, and shares the first bolt and anchors with Minimizer (5.10a).

Sidle leftwards up the ramp (most skip the 1st bolt), then head up making long reaches between nice edges. The crux is a short sequence with marginal feet, but it's easily passed with a bit of technique, after which an easy bit of climbing concludes this pitch (the last bolt is essentially superfluous).

A good warm-up, and one of several popular routes in this area that see lots of traffic. There's an extension to this route called Double Whammy (5.11b), 16 bolts to anchors.


Protection 

7 bolts, ring anchors (shared w/ Minimizer)



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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Mar 13, 2007
rating: 5.10b

The climb seems to wander too much - all for about 10 feet of worthwhile climbing.