The majority of the Quarry is west facing, so the seasons dictate when is the best time to climb. In the summer you can climb to noon, in the winter climb in the Agony Arch area in the morning and the rest of the crag in the afternoon. When it is really windy a few climbs in Slab City are protected. This is a popular area for dirt bikers; on the weekends it can get really busy and noisy. There are so many climbs here that crowds are sparse.
The granite is very high quality and has many unique features due to the early quarrying operations. A lot of the climbs have key holds reinforced with glue and more than a few climbs have holds drilled or chipped. Most of the routes are over 100 feet, some with as many as 24 bolts. This is mostly a sport climbing area, with chains or other suitable anchors at the top of almost every climb. Many routes can be done with 10-12 quickdraws, though.
This place is a great place to spend an afternoon, but due to its close proximity to Riverside and other surrounding cities, there is a lot of trash, junked cars, and random other pieces of junk that no one wants anymore. If you are looking for a beautiful, quiet place to climb, this is definitely not it. If you are looking for an afternoon of fun climbing on good rock this is your ticket.
Access
The Quarry is on private property and driving into the quarry is not allowed - please park on the street. The land owner has a mutual understanding with the rock climbers and allows us to climb here. Please be respectful and keep the noise down, pick up your trash (I know it seems kinda pointless sometimes), and smile and be polite to the police officers when they come through. The more you do, the less likely it is for this place to be closed.
Food
Although there are lots of fast food restaurants nearby the preferred choice is the nearby TJ's Tacos which is just north of the 60 Freeway on the right-hand side (as you drive to the crag) which has amazing tacos (try the carne asada tacos) for $1.35 they are amazing.
Guidebook
A lot of the route beta (# of bolts anchors at the top, and locations) are taken from the guide book, for the sole purpose of providing information and developing further interest in the area. Please contact Louie Anderson (socalbolter@cox.net) to get a copy of the guide book. This are has been very well developed, and most of the cost has been paid for by the route developers. 100% of the proceeds of the guidebook go towards paying for bolts and anchors at the Riverside Quarry. The cost of the guide book is $19.95.
Getting There
From Los Angeles and points west: Take the I-10 Freeway East, South on I-15, East on the 60. Exit Valley Way. Turn left; the cliffs are now visible to the NE. Turn right on Sierra, and then left on the dirt road after the housing development.
From Redlands and points east: Take the I-10 West to the I-215 South, then West on 60. Exit Valley Way/Arnold, turn right then another right on Sierra.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Riverside Quarry:
Start up a short section of easy slab to the base of a left-facing flake system which is jammed/liebacked to a cruxy sequence transitioning into another flake system; being tall helps, as does good technique. Once established in the upper flake continue to race the pump as you climb the spectacular flake system, finishing with a second crux as you work fingery edges up and left, and then back right to anchors on a ledge.Athletic and pum...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
On January 26-28th 2007 a Riverside Sheriffs Deputy had to pull his gun on a group of climbers that attempted to accost him, because he was telling them to move their vehicles to the street. The climbers were not arrested but now the Police are upset. In the past they had asked climbers to move their vehicles to the street, but now they will ticket climbers (and anyone else who drives in or parks at the Quarry). Those climbers have forever tarnished rock climbers image at the Quarry. For the past few years no one has been allowed to drive into the Quarry (due to a Riverside County Ordinance that bans vehicles from driving off-road unless they are in a ORV area). After this weekends incident the Riverside County Sheriffs Dept will be upping their patrols of the area. From now on NO ONE (including climbers) are allowed to drive into the Quarry. If you drive into the Quarry you will be fined $150. The land owner is very upset over the incidents this weekend and this could lead to bigger problems. Please park on the street. If you are concerned about break-in's park in the neighborhood, where you cars will be safer.
By Euan Cameron Administrator From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes Jan 17, 2007
April 2005 - 1st Edition $19.95 - 124 pages - 5.5” x 8.5” ISBN: 0-9766630-1-5 Louie Anderson Publisher
The Riverside Quarry offers superb climbing on steep, featured granite. Unlike other regional areas, the routes here are long, many of them over 100 feet in length. Not only will you find sport climbing, but a handful of excellent quality crack and aid climbs as well. All of this on a cliff that’s centrally located to all of Southern California, and with one of the shortest approaches around.
I'm getting started working on the new edition of the guidebook. The first book went to press when the area was still somewhat new and not that popular.
Now that the Riverside Quarry is one of the more popular sport climbing areas in SoCal, I'd like to get some feedback on the ratings so that this next edition will be as accurate as possible.
Feel free to email comments directly to me at socalbolter@cox.net or post them here (or both). I'm looking for feedback on difficulty ratings and also quality ratings (5-star scale).
Also, if you have found any mistakes in the current book, I'd appreciate a heads up.
I also plan to include even more actions shots in the next book and will likely print the book with color photos. If you have any good climbing shots, I'd like to hear from you.
Thanks much,
- Louie
By Nate Johnson From: Lake Elsinore, CA Jun 4, 2008
I visited this place for the first time last week. I want to thank whoever took the time to clean up the area at the base of the shield. The benches, rock and 4x4 retaining walls are wonderful. They make the area seem very nice in contrast to the rest of the quarry. If the climbers who did that ever need en extra guy to help out, i would be more than happy to pitch in. Thanks again for taking the time to clean up this wonderful spot.
You can thank Louie Anderson (socalbolter) for the drive and vision to make the Quarry what it is today. There are clean-ups/maintenance days now and then, so keep your ear to the ground.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 8, 2009
hey are any parts of the quarry able to be toproped? i dont have a partner right now and am trying to find a place where i can set up a solo belay device. thanks!
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