BETA PHOTO: Mind Bender starts behind the bushes (poison oak) ...
Description
This route is right of Frontal Lobotomy, and is the middle route of three short routes enroute to multiple bolted belays about 40 feet up. This route involves clipping a bolt and making a thin face move or two to reach for a hand-sized hole in the wall. Grab this and make another move before clipping a second bolt.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 22, 2006
The second bolt on this route is ill-positioned involving a real stretch to the left with the left hand. A fall while attempting to clip this would be as I often read, "unfortunate." I will reposition it over next time I'm there. Also, this route can be extended by clipping a qd into one of the initial belays and heading up and right from there. Two more bolts through very easy territory to a 3-bolt belay makes it more fun. Two more bolts to the top to belay at one of the upper Trough belays, complete it.
The guide books and the metal sign at Big Rock dub this a 5.9. However, the beginning (up to the hand-sized hole) seems more difficult than 5.9 to me. The dike provides some features for your feet, yet it is very slippery. I have climbed this route since 2003 and am guessing that a foothold broke loose making it a 5.10 route. Or, I might just be getting old and fat...
By Euan Cameron Administrator From: Redlands Mar 30, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I agree that it is harder than 5.9. I think it is perhaps harder than the 10a just to the left.
By Bill Olszewski From: San Diego, CA May 1, 2007 rating: 5.10a/b
Climbing directly through the hole is quite reachy and perhaps lends to a higher difficulty rating. You can also climb slightly to the right and traverse back to the hole, which is a little easier than straight up. But if you can reach the hole from the good stance it's definately no harder than 5.9.
revisited: Climbed this again recently and it definately seems harder than I remember. I agree Euan, harder than Frontal Lobotomy.
By Chris Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2008 rating: 5.10a
By Jon Leicht From: Santee, CA May 12, 2008 rating: 5.9 R
I did not think this was as hard as 10a. maybe climbing at Santee is paying off and the little edges don't seem so little. I would give it an "R" though. You BETTER make that clip on the second bolt. It is a little off right. I don't think you would hit ground, but darn close!
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