BETA PHOTO: Frontal Lobotomy climbs up the blank area about 10...
Description
Just right of African Flake is this route. It is the leftmost of three short routes that share one of two anchors 40 feet up. Thin face moves characterize this route.
A fun, short route. Is it just me, or has this route gotten easier over the last 2 years (most routes are getting harder for me, save this one, as I have put on some weight...).
By Bill Olszewski From: San Diego, CA May 1, 2007 rating: 5.9+
You're right, Josh, I had the same experience. One day I was leading and found a nice little foot hold at the crux I had never seen before (on several earlier ascents). I always thought this route felt .10a until that moment. Now it feels 5.9.
By Jon Leicht From: Santee, CA May 12, 2008 rating: 5.10a
Liked this short climb a lot. It was a one move wonder, a 5.6 slab with a 10a boulder problem in the middle. although once you find the little nub at the crux to cancel the highstep, it does feel a lot easier.
Main Slab
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